
We arrive to board this very long and famous train which will take us through the Red Centre of Australia. The process is extremely efficient and while we all wait to board there is a cafe for Platinum passengers to choose a range of food and drinks and all passengers are given a glass of bubbly whilst we sit at tables under cover and listen to a representative of the Jawoyn people (who are custodians of the land here and who have a deep spiritual and cultural connection to the land around here) who is playing his guitar and singing well known Australian songs. The Ghan gets its name from the first Afghan cameleers who arrived in South Australia in 1838 to assist in the early exploration of the interior of the country. The train begins to make its way on this 2,979 km journey which will take four days and three nights to get to Adelaide.
Katherine
Our first stop is Katherine – the 4th largest city in the Northern Territory with a population of 10,000 and began as an outpost for the overland telegraph line. Our chosen excursion is a boat trip on the Nitmiluk Gorge. As we glide through the serene waters of this amazing place, the towering cliffs of rock reveal themselves and you can observe the geological transformations that have taken place over millennia. You get off the boat at the end of the first gorge, walk about 500 m over a beautifully formed but uneven rocky track to board another boat for the second part of the gorge. The astounding fact about this gorge is that this year, in the wet season, it was flooded and the waters reached a height of 20 metres (that is not a typo) above where it sits today. As you can imagine, it takes quite a long time for that volume of water to recede and you can see evidence of the damage that the floods had on this incredible landscape. Today it was 34 degrees so the walk was a little warm to say the least but cold cloths are provided by the staff of the Ghan along this walkway, plenty of water and even fruit. I also must mention that the yellow flowers of the Kapok trees have produced white kapok which is covering the ground in places we pass.



Back on board and a four course dinner is served and our cabin is transformed into two nice beds. Now on the end of the beds are little treats like a chocolate, ear plugs, an eye mask, a T bag for a sleepy tea and some lavender pillow spray. Well I am in for the whole lot (including a little nightcap of Bayley’s sitting on the bedside table). All this should help with a good night’s sleep. The boss, however, is convinced that the chocolates will really help him so he devours them while I am spraying, drinking, plugging in ear plugs and putting on ze satin mask. The train gently rocks us to sleep like babies and all is well until I get up to go to the bathroom. I am thinking it is very dark indeed in this cabin so am feeling my way, banging into the wall, etc and then suddenly I feel this piece of satin down under my nose and realise that I am trying to do all this forgetting I had the eye mask on – OMG what a dipsy traveler I have become. It is interesting on this train because it gently rocks so I said to the boss now just watch when you are getting dried after the shower because if you stand I one leg (as I did) to dry the other you are exercising to test your balance. Now if your balance is not excellent you will end up with your head in the basin as I nearly did – or it could be worse because the bathroom is quite small and the toilet is within a hand length away as well!
Alice Springs
Day 2 on the Ghan and we arrive into Alice Springs after a leisurely, healthy breakfast of almost everything on the menu! We devour these treats whilst sitting watching the view of the landscape with the earth turning a very deep shade of red. Our excursion today is a flight to Uluru. The airport (where several large planes are stored out here in this dry part of the country – including an Air NZ plane) is a busy hub for the Royal Flying Doctor Service out here in the outback. We board a Caravan plane where we all have a window seat. The young pilot is a Kiwi – educated at Westlake Boys and has been flying in the outback for the past three years. Heading towards Uluru we pass Pine Gap – the US-Australian Military intelligence facility which stands out because of the very large golf-ball shaped domes. The earth is very red out here in the centre of the country. In fact Alice Springs is just 230 km from the geographical centre of Australia. We fly over a Salt Lake, tiny settlements and, dry river beds and the landscape is criss-crossed with red roads and tracks and dottted with vegetation on this enormous flat plain.
We circle Uluru which is magnificent with the sun shining on it – we go around it twice in different directions and we then fly away a little distance to see Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) – a spectacular rock formation made up of 36 domes covering an area of 21 km. It is as spectacular as Uluru. After landing at Uluru Airport we board a mini bus to take us to a lookout spot for a picnic lunch in the shade. As we sit in this remarkable environment there is little to be said as we just take in the magnificence of this amazing rock and can scarcely believe we are sitting right in front of it. We arrive back in Alice Springs around 5.30 pm – it has been a big day but it is not finished. We are dropped off at Telegraph Station where every passenger on the Ghan enjoys a three-course dinner outdoors on a still evening with the full moon rising as we eat. Entertainment is provided by a “Boy Band” – average age around 65 who play wonderful music and the highlight of the evening was a special guest – an Indigenous gentleman who lives out here – is actually a paramedic. He plays the digeridoo and, as he is an astronomer, he then gets all the lighting turned off and, with the help of a laser pointer, he gives us a wonderful explanation of the constellation above us. The evening ends with him playing the digeridoo to the music of “A Land Downunder” and we all circle him to dance. Magnifique!







Manguri – Coober Pedy
We arrive into Manguri Station on a very hot morning and board the bus to travel 42 km on a red earth bumpy road – more like a track actually. The land is entirely flat and we are told we are surrounded by sheep and cattle stations that are 5000 square kilometers in size. This area gets around 120 ml of rain per year but this year they have had 300 ml to date. There are copper, gold and iron ore mines around this area. It is flat, barren land as far as the eye can see, sparsely scattered with low growing bushes.
Suddenly we see white mounds all over this immense landscape. These are the extractions from opal mining here. We pass open cut mines and many dangerous looking shafts very close to the roadside where people have come to try their luck at finding opals. There are very old and rusty pieces of machinery around the place and huge mounds of different sizes. I wonder if we have somehow landed on the moon?
We arrive in this very unusual township of Cooper Pedy where 70 per cent of the population live in dugouts because of the intense heat which reaches up to 51 degrees C in summer. In these underground dugouts the temperature only gets to 26 degrees. We actually visit one and it drives my simple brain crazy – how do you live with no daylight (what about the VitaminD?). And if you go outside the temperature melts you. We would last two minutes in this moon-like environment. The town has a grocer, a few restaurants, hardware and a chemist shop and a number of opal shops. There is an immense amount of scrap metal everywhere – everywhere!! I think the people here have a little trouble getting rid of stuff!
We are taken to an old gold mine around 30 metres underground which has been converted to a nice place to host an underground lunch experience for the tourists and what an experience it was. An old miner was there telling porkies in one corner and we got to have a peak at what was a working part of the mine. A Greek lunch was served – there is a large Greek population here in Cooper Pedy as well as a rather large Serbian and Croatian population. After this delicious lunch of lamb, chicken, Greek Salad, Baclava and Ravini Cake, we were all given a little glass of Ouzo to gulp down together when the signal was given – “Yamas!” The final stop was to the magnificent underground church of St Elijah.









The old rusty trucks are everywhere – do they work? Not sure!

Back to the Ghan and tables had been set up alongside the siding. Cold drinks and canapés were served in the sun as our journey comes to an end. Another four course dinner, another evening of spraying the pillow with the lavender, eye masks, ear plugs etc and we settle into bed to be rocked and rolled down the track to Adelaide where we arrive around 11 am.
Our wonderful journey on this remarkable Ghan comes to an end. The whole experience runs like a well oiled machine. These young people who work on the train do seven days on and seven days off but they work around 14 hours a day.
As I write this we are now in Sydney with Georgia and Matt in their new apartment which is gorgeous. Hannah is here and Oliver is arriving in Sydney this afternoon. We are with the young ones now and it is great.
Ghan Facts:
Journey is 2979 km and the train travels at an average speed of 86 km/h and a maximum speed of 115 km/h
Average train length is 902 metres and 1,768 tonnes
49 onboard crew
30 Platinum beds, 70 Gold Premium beds and 200 Gold beds
36 carriages including guest carriages, crew carriages, Platinum, Gold Premium and Gold lounges, restaurants and power vans
3 power vans which each contain three 180kVa generators – each van provides electricity for 14 carriages
2 locomotives



































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